Here is this week’s Twin Cities report, only a day and a half late. I’m still working on my backlog, which means this report is of a meal eaten not recently but back at the end of February. After nearly two months, the federal government’s siege of Minnesota had finally begun to ease a little and so we decided to keep our dinner reservation at Dario.
Dario opened in the spring of 2024 to a fair bit of local attention. This ranged from a rave review from Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl in MSP Magazine to a more measured take from Jon Cheng, the Star-Tribune‘s then-restaurant critic. The two reviews are emblematic in a way of the tensions of the local media’s coverage of the Twin Cities’ food scene. One—not always generically distinguishable from a chef’s profile or a press release—promised faultless dishes in a restaurant that represents the new, the happening; the other described a number of dishes that often looked better than they tasted, but because this is Minnesota—or perhaps because of editorial intervention—still gave it a “Highly Recommended” rating. Between all that cognitive dissonance and reports of a deafeningly loud dining room, we didn’t get around to eating there till almost two years later. Here’s how it went.
