El Taco Riendo (Minneapolis)

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So, I didn’t end up posting restaurant reports from the Twin Cities, Seoul or Delhi last week. And I also missed this week’s Bombay report. The ramp-up to the new term plus a sudden and short deadline on a major project killed any hope of that. But I’ll hopefully be able to catch up with extra posts in the next couple of weeks and not have my backlog get really backed up again.

Here now is the Twin Cities report that I was planning to post last week: a quick look at a quick lunch at El Taco Riendo up on Central Ave. in Northeast Minneapolis. Continue reading →

Laphroaig 9, 2001, Again(SMWS 29.88)

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So my planned schedule for the second half of last week fell apart completely. What I’d failed to account for when I made those best-laid plans was that my new term and school year starts today and that while getting ready to write syllabi, meet with new advisees etc. I would suddenly receive some urgent and unmissable deadlines on a project I’ve been trying to bring to a close for a while (more on this later, if you don’t know what it is, or even if you do). The good news is I still have a booze review for you this week. The bad news is that it is a return to a whisky I have reviewed once before: a 9 yo Laphroaig bottled by the Scotch Malt Whisky Society under the name “What a Magnificent and Handsome Nose”.

My previous review was posted in late-February 2020 (just before you-know-what hit). That review was from a sample swap with someone whose identity I had failed to log in my spreadsheet. I’d noted then that I had a bottle of my own of the whisky (and that I had also failed to log where I’d acquired it from and for how much). Well, my memory is no better now but I am glad anyway to have opened the bottle; and I’m curious to see what I make of it now. Continue reading →

Maaslli III and IV (Bombay, April 2026)

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Here is my second report on Maaslli, the excellent GSB (Gaud Sarawsat Brahmin) restaurant whose original location turned out to be a 15-minute walk from where I was putting up in Worli for five weeks this spring (if there is such a thing in Bombay). As I noted in my previous report on the restaurant, on two dinners eaten in late-March, right after my arrival in the city, Maaslli, which I selected early on for convenience, turned out to be one of my absolute favourite places to eat in the city. The food is rather rich, with a lot of coconut and coconut oil or ghee in most things, but it is also rather tasty. It gets crowded very fast at peak times but it’s one  of the few places I would happily wait in line for if I needed to. Here now is my report on my third and fourth meals there, both lunches. I took a bunch of my students there for that third meal and the fourth one I ate alone. Both were excellent again. Here are some details. Continue reading →

Laphroaig 14, 1998 (Signatory for Binny’s)

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Back to whisky for the first booze review of the month. I have for you today a bit of a throwback. This Laphroaig 14, 1998, bottled from a single bourbon hogshead, was one of Binny’s barrel picks back in 2012. This was right around the time that I had begun to purchase whisky in a big way. Back then shipping from liquor stores around the US to Minnesota was not a complicated affair and I purchased many a bottle from Binny’s (in Chicago) in that era. Indeed, one of my favourite Laphroaigs in that phase of my whisky exploration had been another Laphroaig bottled by Signatory and selected by Binny’s. That one was 19 years old and was also from a single bourbon cask. My guess is that is what led me to purchase this 14 yo; that and the fact that in those days prices were extremely reasonable and Brett Pontoni and his crew’s single barrel picks were extremely reliable. I can’t actually tell you how much I paid for this as, unusually, I didn’t record any of the purchase information in my otherwise detailed whisky spreadsheet. The 19 yo had been $110 in 2010, and so I imagine this was a fair bit cheaper. I have no idea what Binny’s prices and selection of single malts are like these days—I’ve not kept up with Binny’s in recent years, as shipping became complicated and then impossible a while ago. Anyway, let’s get to it. Continue reading →

Bhansaghar II (Delhi, March 2026)

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I’d said I would have another Delhi restaurant report from my considerable backlog on Sunday and, by god, it’s still Sunday in Minnesota! Not for very much longer, but it’s still Sunday!

This is not the Delhi restaurant report I’d planned to post, however. I’d hoped to get another of my long-delayed reports of a couple of meals eaten at the same restaurant across 2025 out. But as it turned out, the theme of this weekend was the endless processing of the massive harvests of tomatoes coming in from my community garden plot and I did not have time to process and resize the large number of photographs from those meals. And so I have for you instead a quick report on a quick lunch eaten with a friend in March. Nobody who reads my Delhi restaurant reports regularly (assuming any such people exist) will be surprised to learn that this lunch was eaten in Humayunpur. It was not eaten, however, in a restaurant specializing in the food of a state from India’s north-east. It was instead a Nepali meal, eaten at Bhansaghar. Continue reading →

Geumsundang (Seoul)

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When we’re in Seoul for longer stays we cook a fair bit. That means a lot of visits to my absolute favourite place in the city to shop for vegetables and seafood: Cheongnyangni Market. I posted a look at the market back in 2024 after our visits to it. We went back again several times this May. One of those visits was after an excellent walking tour of the broader area with the Royal Asiatic Society of Korea. Once the walk ended, we wandered the market (at one end of which lies what is probably the coolest Starbucks anywhere in the world, perhaps the only cool one) and took a few of the students to lunch with us in the market’s well-known tongdak alley. We’d eaten there with students in 2024 as well. On that occasion, we’d visited an establishment that specializes in fried chicken (which is what tongdak canonically refers to). On this occasion we visited Geumsundang, a small restaurant whose thing is whole roast chicken (also tongdak in a broader sense) as well as other roast meats. Here’s how it went. Continue reading →

Myriel III (St. Paul, MN)

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After taking three years after our first dinner at Myriel to get around to our second, here now is my review of our third dinner there, eaten just over a year after the second. Indeed, after our second dinner I had promoted them to the “Once a Year” tier in the 2025 edition of my Twin Cities Fine Dining Rotation, and I am very glad to say that our meal in 2026 did not cause me to want to reverse that decision. Instead, over the next few months I’ll be thinking about whether I want to promote them further in the 2026 iteration of the list, which will be out at the end of the year. So it was a very good meal again—read on for the details. Continue reading →

Shree Thaker Bhojanalay (Bombay, April 2026)

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Alright, back to Bombay and back to another South Bombay classic: Shree Thaker Bhojanalay. Located in Kalbadevi, Shree Thaker Bhojanalay has been around since 1945 and is famous for its vegetarian Gujarati food served in unlimited thalis. Gujarati restaurant food has a reputation for excess and Shree Thaker Bhojanalay is certainly where you can see that being earned. The large stainless thali that was set down in front of me had 10 bowls on it, which were filled and refilled with various things over the course of the meal; to say nothing of chutneys, fried things and breads that were set down elsewhere on the thali. A constant flow of staff keeps rotating between tables, offering refills and urging customers to eat (though do be mindful of the signs all around the restaurant reminding people not to waste food). A meal here will take at least three years of your life but it’s a delicious way to go. Continue reading →

Chacolo Lineño

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Have I really not reviewed a mezcal since last November? Well, I guess I’ve barely reviewed any booze since last November. Anyway, I have today another release from Chacolo, whose spirit cannot legally be called mezcal (or tequila). See my previous (and so far only other) review of one of their mezcals to see why that is. As I noted there, Chacolo use the capon method of of “castrating” the agave plant as it begins to send up a flowering stalk but leave the plants in the field to concentrate the flavours for far longer than most producers. The ixtero amarillo I reviewed last October spent four years in capon before being mashed and distilled. This release of lineño is from agave that spent 3 years in capon (I’m not sure if “in capon” is the correct way to put it). Unlike the ixtero amarillo, lineño is a variety of agave angustifolia, as are the rest of the agave varieties the family grows. (Again, I recommend that you read more about them on Mezcalistas.) I liked that ixterro amarillo a lot and am looking forward to this one. Continue reading →

Indian Accent V (Delhi, July 2025)

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Yes, you read that correctly: this is a report on a meal eaten in Delhi not this past July, but in July of 2025. That’s not even my record for a belated meal report/review; in fact, I have another Delhi report from 2025 in the wings that’s going to make this one look timely. More on that later.

This is my fifth report on a meal at Indian Accent in Delhi, and the fourth on lunch at their current location in the Lodhi Hotel (our first meal there was a dinner when they were still in the Manor Hotel in Friends Colony). At the two lunches before this one, I was with the missus and we ate the non-vegetarian Chef’s Tasting Menu (here and here); at the meal before those, a friend and I had eaten the Express tasting menu. On this occasion, however, we were accompanied by our boys and we ordered from the a la carte menu. Here’s how it went. Continue reading →

Tim Ho Wan, Yongsan-gu, Again (Seoul, May 2026)

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Back to Seoul, but not to Korean food. If Gwanghwamun Gukbap is a restaurant we’ve eaten at on all our trips to Seoul as a family in the last three years, Tim Ho Wan is another. Well, technically, we’ve not eaten at the same location on every visit. In 2024 we ate at the branch in Gangnam-gu; in 2025 we ate at the branch in the iPark mall in Yongsan-gu. In 2026, we returned to the Yongsan-gu branch. Why are we eating dim sum in Seoul? Well, because the quality of the dim sum at the Seoul locations of Tim Ho Wan so outstrips anything available in Minnesota that it would be foolish not to. If we lived in Los Angeles it might be a different story. As it happens, there’s a good chance we might not return to Tim Ho Wan on our next trip. But that’s not because this meal was bad; it’s because later we ate dim sum at another place much closer to where we usually put up that was even better. More on that later; here now is a quick look at this meal. Continue reading →

Tenant XV (Minneapolis)

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Only about two days late, here is this week’s Twin Cities dining report. It covers dinner at one of our favourite restaurants in the metro, Tenant. In the last iteration of my Twin Cities Fine Dining Rotation I had them in the “Several Times a Year” tier along with Alma. However, this was only our first dinner there this year. This is partly because of all our/my travels in the spring and summer and partly because Tenant had gone into a different mode during the ICE siege of the Twin Cities, doing not their usual six-course menu surprise but functioning as a soup kitchen of sorts, feeding their community at whatever price people were able to pay. Since the summer they’ve retooled and returned to their normal format, but not exactly to what it was before. In place of the six-course menu they now do a four-course menu. You still won’t know what each course comprises till it reaches you at the counter or a table. In terms of the amount of food it appears to be the same as it was before. This menu costs $75/head and includes service. They also now have an optional set of supplements, served before, between and as add-ons to courses that adds on an additional $35/head. And there’s still an optional wine pairing as well at $45. Here’s how it all looked at our dinner just about two weeks ago. Continue reading →

Saayba Hotel (Bombay, April 2026)

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Here, just an hour or so before Tuesday comes to a close in southern Minnesota, is this week’s Bombay report. The delay, for a change, is not due to my usual unreliability. I received a new laptop from work today, which meant a period of a few hours when I had no laptop, while data was transferred from the old to the new. Then I had a bit of a nightmare of trying to remember and recover unsaved passwords for a plethora of sites, including this one. And I had to cook dinner. Fascinating, I know; especially as you don’t really care when I post these restaurant reports that are of no utility to you and describe meals in places you are not likely to ever visit. You are welcome. Anyway, we are back in Bombay in April, at a restaurant in Bandra West that most of my friends in the city have not only not eaten at in years, but which most of them were shocked to hear was still in business. Promising, I know, but it was a pretty good meal anyway. Continue reading →

Orkney Distillery 13, 2007 (Single malts of Scotland)

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Alright, after an unplanned three week hiatus—caused by my falling ill after coming back from Delhi earlier this month—let’s get the weekly booze reviews back on track. I’m still sticking to my plan of only reviewing my own bottles, which means no more than four reviews a month (as the goal of this plan is to drink down my collection and not to proliferate the number of open bottles on my shelf.

Most recently opened is this 13 yo from an undisclosed Orkney distillery, put together in 2020 from three sherry casks containing spirit distilled in 2007. Well, in reality everyone knows the distillery is Highland Park. The bottler is The Single Malts of Scotland, whose relationship to the Whisky Exchange is something I can never keep straight in my head. It’s possible that they’re now completely different entities. I purchased this bottle from Whiskybase in early 2021 for what was a reasonable price for a 13 yo sherry cask malt: €58. I’m sure anything similar would now cost quite a bit more. Ah well. I opened this bottle a week or so ago; time to finally take some notes. Continue reading →

Seabra’s Marisqueira (Newark, October 2025)

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Here, finally, is my last report from the missus and my brief visit to New York/New Jersey last October. From that trip, I’ve previously reported on pizza eaten at the Manhattan branch of L’Industrie, dinner at Theodora in Brooklyn, lunch at Laut near Union Square and dinner at the now-closed Foul Witch in the East Village. Our last day was spent entirely in New Jersey. We spent the day with old friends down near New Brunswick—and had fabulous home-made Hyderabadi biryani and kababs for lunch. After getting back to our hotel in Newark in the evening, we were too tired to countenance heading back to Manhattan for dinner. As our hotel was very close to Newark’s Portuguese Ironbound district, we looked around instead for a place we could walk to, and seized upon Seabra’s Marisqueira. Here’s how it went. Continue reading →

Chaitanya II (Bombay, April 2026)

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Here is this week’s Bombay restaurant report, only four days late. My last report from Bombay featured a return—to Highway Gomantak in Bandra—and so does this one. In this case I’m back to Chaitanya in Prabhadevi, the iconic Malvani restaurant that is at the top of many people’s lists of the best seafood restaurants in the city.

You may recall that a friend and I tried to eat dinner at Chaitanya on a Sunday night earlier on this trip. Rebuffed by a likely 90 minute wait, we’d ended eating a pretty good Malvani meal at Sarangaa, not too far away. But after my excellent lunch here in 2024, I knew I was going back for sure; it came to pass for an early lunch towards the end of the trip. I took a few of my students with me. We arrived just as they opened for lunch and had no trouble getting a table. It was another excellent meal; here’s how it went. Continue reading →

Chicken House (Seoul, May 2026)

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Given how identified Korean fried chicken (KFC) is these days with Korean food, it might surprise you to learn that its popularity, particularly in combination with chilled beer (chimaek, as the combo is known), is a relatively new thing—probably arising in the late-70s at the earliest and not really becoming hugely popular—as a combination—until a couple of decades later. That said, it is very much an iconic thing now and the country is dotted both with outlets of many, many popular chains (all seemingly excellent) as well as many stand-alone restaurants that serve up chilled beer, fried chicken, and other things to eat with chilled beer. Walking around the city, especially later in the evening, you can see a number of these smaller establishments with younger people eating and drinking outdoors. We passed one such place, Chicken House, a number of times while walking late in the evening near Anguk subway station and finally repaired there for dinner one weekend after taking in the lantern festival near the Jogyessa Temple. Here’s a quick look. Continue reading →